Tools of the Trade

Day Fourteen: Awl and Corkboard

A few years ago, I spent each day in January writing about a different tool I use in my maskmaking. As I am currently redesigning my entire website in the new year, I thought it might be nice to revisit this project.  Each day in January 2021, I’ll share a different item that I use in my studio. I hope some of these can help other people who are interested in making wrestling masks. 

There’s a number of ways to mark the hole placement on a laceplate, and my first inclination was always to use a Sharpie. I was then shown how to do it with an awl, and I’ve been doing it that way ever since. It’s easier to get a precision mark with an awl. And once I’ve marked the holes on one side of the laceplate, I can fold it in half and quickly mark the holes on the other side by pushing the awl all the way through the material. I figured I’d need some cork or something to back the material with when I did this, but had a hard time finding a piece of of cork thick enough for the job. Then it struck me that we used to have a candle in a jar that had a large cork lid, so I searched around on Amazon and sure enough, you can buy replacement cork lids there! I use one of my dad’s old wine corks to protect the point of the awl when I store it.

Tools of the Trade

Day Thirteen: Brayer

A few years ago, I spent each day in January writing about a different tool I use in my maskmaking. As I am currently redesigning my entire website in the new year, I thought it might be nice to revisit this project.  Each day in January 2021, I’ll share a different item that I use in my studio. I hope some of these can help other people who are interested in making wrestling masks. 

Here’s a tool that’s not really essential, but that I enjoy using. I use various methods to get my patterns onto my vinyl to cut out the plates for my masks. One of the methods involves printing out the pattern, reversed, and then using spray adhesive to adhere it to the back of the vinyl or leather before cutting it out with my art knife. I briefly flirted with block printing as a hobby years ago, so I had one of these Speedball brayers laying around. I use it to roll over the paper patterns and make sure they’re adhering well to my material.

While on the subject of rollers, here’s another one I keep in my work area. To be honest, I have no idea what it is. I got it at a really junky surplus store. I’ve since seen them somewhere like Home Depot but I can’t remember what they were for. I use this small roller to crease folded-over edges, like the neckline of my masks, when I can’t be bothered to iron a crease into them.

Tools of the Trade

Day Twelve: Silicone Finger Sleeves

A few years ago, I spent each day in January writing about a different tool I use in my maskmaking. As I am currently redesigning my entire website in the new year, I thought it might be nice to revisit this project.  Each day in January 2021, I’ll share a different item that I use in my studio. I hope some of these can help other people who are interested in making wrestling masks. 

I’m getting a really late start today, so today’s article is short but sweet. Have you ever been nyxing your mask fabric (ie using spray adhesive to glue the outer layer of your mask fabric to the lining) and accidentally wrinkled the fabric or flipped it over on itself, and the adhesive made the whole thing a tangled mess? And have you then tried to pull it apart and smooth it out? It can be nearly impossible, as the glue sticks to the fabric and to your fingers and you end up with a bigger mess than you started with. This happened to me more often than I’d care to admit, so I was looking for a way to handle glue-coated fabric without the fabric sticking to my skin. I eventually found this set of silicone finger protectors (the red items,) and they worked a treat. They fit tightly over your fingers and thumb, and you can handle the sticky fabric and untangle it without it getting stuck to your fingers. Later on I found the pink items in the picture, which are little caps that slide over your fingertips. They’re designed for soaking nail varnish off your fingers, but since they’re made of silicone, they also can help when handling sticky fabric. I found these at my local dollar store; you can’t beat that price!

As a bonus, either of these items are also helpful to wear if you’re ironing something small, as the silicone will help protect your fingers from the heat. I’ve also sometimes used them while gluing small items so that any stray glue won’t get on my fingers.

Tools of the Trade

Day Eleven: Marking Pens (et al)

A few years ago, I spent each day in January writing about a different tool I use in my maskmaking. As I am currently redesigning my entire website in the new year, I thought it might be nice to revisit this project.  Each day in January 2021, I’ll share a different item that I use in my studio. I hope some of these can help other people who are interested in making wrestling masks. 

Anybody who has bought pens for marking on fabric know that they’re not all made equal. A lot of them are pretty horrible, to be honest. There are air-erasable pens and water-erasable pens and pens whose marks disappear when you iron them. Most of them are really iffy except on certain fabrics. When you’re working with things like spandex, vinyl, and leather, you usually need to search a little harder. Here are a few of the marking devices that I use most.

We’ll go through these left to right, top down. That first item is just a standard tailor’s chalk. Underneath is a tailor’s wax crayon. Both of these are great for quick outlining. They transfer their marks quite easily, so they can work nicely on stretchy fabric like spandex. The blue and yellow sticks next to them are Clover Chaco Liners. They’re full of a fine chalk powder, and a tiny grooved wheel in the tip lays down a thin line of chalk as you run it across the fabric. These are great because you’re not dragging a tip along a stretchy fabric; it rolls along it, so you can get a more precise line. I drew a little arrow on the tip to remind me which direction it should travel. It comes in a number of colours. Next are white, pink, and blue versions of the Sewline Click Chalk Pencil. They’re basically what they sound like, thin clickable pencils but with chalk instead of lead. (By the way, the price at that link is ridiculous; you should be able to find them much cheaper than that!)

First in this picture are two clickable Sharpies, in Fine and Ultrafine. These are what I use most when tracing patterns onto fabric. I like the clickable ones because I can just quickly grab them, do what I need to do, and toss them back in the jar. After those are a set of red and green metallic Sharpies I bought a couple of years ago in the sales after Christmas. They seem to mark really well on dark fabrics, even a lot of the ones that normal light pens balk at. Next is a red and a black version of the 0.5 Needle Tip EnerGel Pen from Pentel. I just started using these recently. The tips are really thin, and they lay down a good line, so I’ve been using them on the back of vinyl when I need to trace off a pattern or make notes. Finally, I’ve always been looking for something that would make a good mark on dark vinyl. It’s a tricky medium. I’ve tried a bunch of things, and one day I went on JetPens and ordered one of just about every white pen they had. These are the two I liked the best. The first is the Sakura Glaze, and the next is the Uniball Signo. Both are gel pens, so they can sometimes be a bit finicky, but they’re the pens to go to on dark vinyl when you need a bit of precision and nothing else will work.

Tools of the Trade

Day Ten: Nävlinge Lamp

A few years ago, I spent each day in January writing about a different tool I use in my maskmaking. As I am currently redesigning my entire website in the new year, I thought it might be nice to revisit this project.  Each day in January 2021, I’ll share a different item that I use in my studio. I hope some of these can help other people who are interested in making wrestling masks. 

I like to have a lot of light when I’m working on a project. Like, a LOT of light. On my sewing machine alone, I have five lights, with a sixth that I can train on either my sewing machine or my cutting/gluing area. My favourite light is the Ikea Nävlinge LED Work Lamp. These things are inexpensive but super-useful. (Although the price seems to have gone up about 30% since I last bought them!) They consist of a nicely weighted base that keeps them where you want them on your desktop, a long and thin but sturdy gooseneck that allows you to get the light right where you want it, and a very bright directed LED light. The gooseneck is very flexible and stays right where you put it, so you an just pour light onto the area under your needle, or bend it so it’s coming in from any angle.

I think I have five or six of these puppies. I just love them. I do a lot of pattern cutting at my computer, so I have one there, one on my cutting/gluing table, and another on my leather worktable. Since the gooseneck is magnetic, I also attach little notes to them with magnets. You can also get the lamp in a number of colours and configurations. For example, there’s a clip-on and a floor-based model. On my cutting/gluing table, I have the Nävlinge on one side, and the gorgeously retro Ikea Forså on the other side (except mine is a lovely mint colour.)

BONUS TOTT

Since I’m talking about lights, I figured I’d show you a selection of the other lights I use that I think some other folks might benefit from. First is this floor lamp. The overhead light in my sewing room doesn’t throw out nearly enough light to suit me, so for years I’ve been using one of those halogen torchieres that are apparently illegal or something now. (They throw out a lot of light, but also ridiculous amounts of heat and can explode.) I finally stumbled on something called a “corn bulb”, which is designed for use as an overhead light in a garage. So I bought this 80W LED Corn Light Bulb and stuck it in a cheapo $8 floor lamp from Walmart, and it’s wonderful. It’s an amazing 8000 lumens, and lights up the room nicely.

Lastly, I wanted to show you the other lights I have on my sewing machine. Clockwise from the top left we have 1) The Uberlight 1000TL is a bright LED sewing lamp that bolts into the table. The head swivels easily, so it’s easy to move it from pointing at the sewing area to my hands when I need to rip out seams. 2) this magnetic gooseneck LED lamp lives on the back of my machine and shines light on the material behind the needle. 3) This is another of my favourite lights. It’s an LED strip that attaches magnetically underneath the machine, right next to the needle arm. It lights up the sewing area really well. I got mine from Keystone Sewing. 4) Last is nice Ottlite floor lamp that shines a general light over the whole work area. I think I got it at a thrift shop, 

Here’s another lighting idea that I don’t use myself, but I thought other folks might find useful. They’re a set of LED lights embedded in an adhesive strip that you can put on the underside of the arm of your sewing machine. It looks as if they would do a great job of lighting up your work area. There’s a number of people selling different types on Amazon.

Tools of the Trade

Day Nine: Silicone Tools

A few years ago, I spent each day in January writing about a different tool I use in my maskmaking. As I am currently redesigning my entire website in the new year, I thought it might be nice to revisit this project.  Each day in January 2021, I’ll share a different item that I use in my studio. I hope some of these can help other people who are interested in making wrestling masks. 

Yesterday I shared a cast iron weight I use to keep things flat while I’m gluing them. Today I thought we’d look at some other products I use while gluing, all made of silicone. The first is a silicone baking mat. I lay this over my cutting mat whenever I’m gluing things. If any glue strays off the surface of what I’m gluing, it’s easily wiped up or peeled up from the nonstick mat. (The only trick here is to remember to remove it when you want to cut something. I’ve managed to absentmindedly slash up at least three of these things! Do not mistake your gluing mat for a cutting mat!)

I was at an office supply store and saw these silicone bookcovers in the clearance section, marked down to almost nothing. I guess nobody bought them at back to school time! (I certainly wouldn’t have; can you imagine how weird your books would feel wrapped in these?) I saw another use for them though. They’re basically just thin sheets of silicone, so I cut them into a variety of sizes, and use them occasionally when I’m gluing things. Sometimes I lay them on top of the glued item before putting the cast iron weight on them, to prevent sticking. Sometimes I use them as a sort of nonstick dropcloth to mask off an area I don’t want to get glue on. They can also be used to wrap around an area where I want to use clips or clothespins to hold something in place as the glue dries.

I found a similar product in Japan at the wonderful Daiso store. These are designed to be wrapped around the top of a can or bowl to serve as a temporary lid, a sort of reusable cling film. It came in several sizes, and I use the biggest one as a quick portable work area when I need to glue somewhere other than my work bench.

Here’s another item I got on clearance. Our local college student store had this Softie Grip Grass marked way down, so I grabbed a couple. The thick, flexible cylinders accept just about anything you want to jam in there. I keep it right next to my work area, and mostly keep smaller tubes of glue in there. It’s also convenient for a small ruler, tailor’s chalk, toothpicks, pens, etc, etc, etc.

Tools of the Trade

Day Eight: Big Iron Weight

A few years ago, I spent each day in January writing about a different tool I use in my maskmaking. As I am currently redesigning my entire website in the new year, I thought it might be nice to revisit this project.  Each day in January 2021, I’ll share a different item that I use in my studio. I hope some of these can help other people who are interested in making wrestling masks. 

When I’m gluing my plate stacks together (the layers of vinyl that make the applique designs on the mask), I like to make sure they lay flat so the glue can set nicely. I used to just use big books and whatnot, but then came up with the idea of using a heavy hamburger or steak press; it would be easy to move around and more convenient than a stack of books. I looked around, but everything I found had ridges on the bottom, to make those grill marks people like on their meat.

One night I was over at my friend Jason’s house, telling him how I was having such a hard time finding a flat-bottomed burger press. Without even taking a step, he just reached out to his stove and said “like this one.” YES PLEASE. I can’t find this round version online, but here’s a rectangular version of the Lodge Cast Iron Press with a flat bottom. It works wonderfully for my intended purpose.

Tools of the Trade

Day Seven: Glue Spreaders

A few years ago, I spent each day in January writing about a different tool I use in my maskmaking. As I am currently redesigning my entire website in the new year, I thought it might be nice to revisit this project.  Each day in January 2021, I’ll share a different item that I use in my studio. I hope some of these can help other people who are interested in making wrestling masks. 

“Professionally used in beauty salons, dispensing and mixing face cream conveniently, scooping the cream without finger,keep the cream jar clean, flat spatula design gives smoother feelings without nasty sharp.” Well, you can’t ask for a better description of this tool. These makeup spatulas are most definitely without nasty sharp. They do have a nice thin flexible edge on them, so I find them to be mighty useful as glue spreaders. They can be used several times before they get too gunked up, and sometimes you can peel the glue off and continue to use them. Either way, they’re mighty affordable so you can toss them when they’ve truly become too unwieldy.

The other tool I use is actually homemade. Sitting at Mister Cacao’s elbow, watching him make masks, I’ve seen him use everything to spread glue from cardboard scraps to the stirrer from his Starbucks cup, but what he uses the most is simply a piece of wire that he’s bent into a useful spreader with a twisted handle. I’ve adopted this method in my own #maskmaking, as it’s cheap, easy to make, easy to use, and as a bonus, if you pick the right gauge of wire, the tool doubles as a plug for your tube of glue! Brilliant!

I just went down to my local Home Depot, and found the aisle where you can buy wire by the foot. I got a lifetime supply for about forty cents.

Tools of the Trade

Day Six: Needle Storage

A few years ago, I spent each day in January writing about a different tool I use in my maskmaking. As I am currently redesigning my entire website in the new year, I thought it might be nice to revisit this project.  Each day in January 2021, I’ll share a different item that I use in my studio. I hope some of these can help other people who are interested in making wrestling masks. 

I try to buy a bunch of needles whenever they go on sale. I use a couple of different kinds of needles for different materials, as well as a few different sizes, so I can have a bunch of packs of needles on hand at any given time. I originally found these storage boxes at JoAnn’s, and they’re perfectly sized for the packaging that Groz-Beckert uses for their needles. (You can also fit Schmidt needles in there, but you need to angle them a bit.) This one is the Craft Mates Lockables 7 Compartment 3XL, but they come in a few other sizes as well. They’re also pretty good for beads, gems, grommets, or any other small items you need to store. The compartments lock, so you can toss the whole thing in a drawer and not really worry about the contents spilling all over the place.

While I’m on the subject of needle storage, I thought I’d share another little gimmick I came up with. I tend to use three types of needles frequently, but there are times where I may not be able to sew for a couple of days or more. Industrial needles aren’t colour-coded like some home machine needles are, so I had this problem where I would forget what type of needle I had in the machine. I came up with a simple solution to this problem: I got some wooden Scrabble tiles and glued a small neodymium magnet to the back of each one. Each tile represents a different type of needle: R for regular point, B for ballpoint, and L for leather. I put the tile for the needle I’m currently using on the front of my machine, so at a glance I know I have (in the picture) a regular point needle installed. The other tiles live on top of the machine, and their associated needles are attached to them by the magnets. This system has helped me so much!!!

Tools of the Trade

Day Five: Victorinox Sharpener

A few years ago, I spent each day in January writing about a different tool I use in my maskmaking. As I am currently redesigning my entire website in the new year, I thought it might be nice to revisit this project.  Each day in January 2021, I’ll share a different item that I use in my studio. I hope some of these can help other people who are interested in making wrestling masks. 

Yesterday I showed the Olfa Art Knife that I use to cut the material for my mask plates. Today, I thought it would be helpful to share a little trick I learned, and the tool you use to do the trick. It’s important to use sharp blades when you’re cutting your material. Dull blades take more effort to use, and may result in ragged and imprecise cuts, and potentially could end up with you cutting yourself as you try to force the dull blade through the material. I used to go through blades pretty quickly, but then I was watching a leatherworking tutorial video and saw somebody honing their Xacto blades with a Victorinox Pocket Sharpener. When you use a blade to cut material, the sharp edge gets slightly bent to one side or another, and this contributes to a dull blade. Now before each cutting session, I pull the blade of my Olfa through the crisscrossed stones in the tip of this sharpener. A few strokes pulls the edge of the blade back into alignment, and cutting is a lot easier. This tool helps me extend the life of my Olfa blades. Where before I might change the blades once an hour, I can now make a single blade last a week or more!

Bonus Tool of the Trade: when I decide a blade is finally not performing up to par, even with the honing process, I use this Olfa Blade Disposal Can to store the discarded blade. The can is a little smaller than a hockey puck, and has a little door in the side that slides to reveal a slot. You stick your used blades in there, where they’re trapped inside. I also put snap-off blades in there; you can actually use it to snap the blades off by just sliding the tip in there and pulling the knife down (the blade snaps off and falls into the can.) This is much better than my previous method, which was to just lie the discarded blade on the table next to me, where I would inevitably cut myself with it later.